
I have been successfully making choux a few times as of late. Then it struck me one day when my my batter just flopped in the oven. Well, they weren't really flopped, or deflated or anything. They just didn't rise at all.
The 10-cm fully-baked choux came out pretty much the same size as when they went into the oven, no puff, no air pocket for the filling or anything. Imagine bread sticks that waiters bring to your table when you visit Italian restaurant, that what they looked like. Despite disappointing result, they tasted great, tasty and buttery, a bit better than salty crackers. I was thinking whether they could perhaps become one of the most popular finger snacks ever made. However, the whole tray went directly to the trash.

There are a few things I want to share, not sure though if my theories are correct. I have been trying to google the instructions, to see if anyone talked about things that have been clogging my mind, none mentioned in details how the batter should be cooked in the pot , which I think IS the key to success. None even mentioned how batter consistency should be like before baking.
Here are un-confirmed theories of mine based on lecture in class and 7-8 repetitions at school and home.
- Choux batter needs to absorb as much as liquid as possible since it needs moist/steam to push up its structure in the oven (there are no other structure-builders such as yeast or baking powder here). This is achieved through gelatinization process where starch swells hot liquid while cooked in the pot. It starts at 60-65c and continues. The target temperature of the batter is around 80-85 C.
- The swelling process begins when you dump all the flour, all at once, into boiling water (this is done off heat) Why "all at once"? I presume adding flour little by little would quickly over-cook the flour into dumplings. Also, the all-at-once thingy brings down water's boiling point to target gelatinized temperature ? Perhaps?
- The purpose of precooking/drying dough in the pot until it dries out/or so called "forms a ball and leave thin film at the bottom" is to;
1) complete the gelatinazation process , to let the mass of clumped starch evenly heated. Also keep in mind that you need the dough to be as hot while stirring (optimum temp is 60-70 c, which is why most instructions advice medium heat***) . 2) to dry out the dough as much as possible so it can absorb liquid from eggs at its best capacity in later steps.
*** I have seen my classmate did the precooking at very high heat (we had exam, and she was in a hurry) I presumed she must have stirred it crazily quick, or the dough could have burnt. For me I used the medium heat and stir at my snails pace until the dough's consistency was similar to that of almond paste (or clay).
- Cool down the dough before adding eggs? eh...may be...but I find out... whisking the "beaten" eggs on to the hot batter vigorously is a practical way to mix. (so you don't have to cool down, just mix in , quickly. It's fast, it's okay to do. So, let's do it.
And here comes last part (but not least) before piping, it's when we add eggs. Yes, sounds simple but read this carefully, I believe this tip is the secret in making 1) well-puffed 2) well-shaped choux.
- When you add eggs half way through, notice whether the batter becomes too runny to pipe (see batter texture we want to achieve below). If it is, bad news, the dough is not sufficiently cooked/dried out in the pot, thus low-absorption ability. If this happens in class, chef would advice throwing this away and start over. If this happens at home, you may continue to add more eggs as called for and bake that runny batter anyway. It still puffs up nicely but keep in mind the batter is too runny, it won't hold any shapes as you wish it would. Alternately, you can fry Churros/Funnel cake using this batter.
- The goal we want to achieve - batter must be pipable, not too stiff/too dry to pipe that it rips off the piping bag, not too soft that it cannot hold the shape or flats out right away when piped on baking sheet. Below is a sample of the batter. To test, with the spatula, scoop up the batter, if it drops down and leave hanging V-shape , it's good to go. Or, when you drag finger to cut through the dough, it slowly pulls back on , covering the gaps.

Now, I found quite a few websites left out these critical parts of how the dough consistency should be like. Of course baking choux is easy, but making it nice and "consistent" is not as easy as it seems. Most amateur bakers don't cook the batter properly in the pot.
Even worse, they continue adding eggs as the recipe calls for, no matter how runny the batter is and end up having flat choux (although they have satisfying big air pockets). Some instructions advice us to stop adding eggs whenever we achieve piping consistency/texture, regardless of (too) little eggs we've added. Result? too little eggs, not enough liquid, not enough steam in the oven thus no push-up for the choux. Final products are weird looking buttery bread sticks with no air pockets just like what I experienced.
- Oven temperature - If you have fan forced oven, 170-180c would be appropriate. For bakers oven , it's 190-200 c for the first half and 180 c for the rest. Baking time depends largely on the shape of the choux and how crowded you lay them on the tray. So you may check for the doneness 1) surface is evenly golden brown, no white streaks appear on the cracks 2) it springs back when gently push and 3) the bottom is evenly brown out. Be careful not to open the oven door too early, before they fully rise otherwise the steam will escape and they will collapse. Nothing can be done to fix that.
Do not crowd the tray, for some reason, it would take a lot longer to bake them through. And then, if you happen to open the oven before they puff, you know you would regret.
I won't mention the process after baking such as poking /cooling down and filling. There are some other tips which I haven't tried such as spraying water into the oven before baking to increase steam. I personally do not think it would help largely because the steam that help pushes the choux is trapped inside starch molecules. Well, if anyone can back this spraying tip with your experiment, please do let me know.
And here is a very informative website I found, with lots of beautiful illustrations. He mentioned a good trick to prevent cracks on surface. I haven't tried the mix of bread+pastry flour, which is interesting. If anyone tried, again, please let me know the result.
Hope your choux shines !
Friday, April 23, 2010
My choux doesn't shine....my past (random) failure
Thursday, March 4, 2010
What I love most - It's the croissant day!!!
- If you cannot source fresh yeast, use instant dry yeast, just weight up 33% of what required for fresh yeast.
- Coldness is your very best friend. If you live in the tropical, prep this in air-conditioning room. Or if not, use margarine instead of dry butter. I myself don't compromise for margarine as the after taste is not so pleasant. so, margarine is a no-no for me.
- Proofing the dough is tricky. Comfy temperature for yeast to grow is around 25-30 C. I would say 27 C to be precise. Also, at 27 C, butter stays nice and cold and is trapped in croissant layers. If you don't' want a soggy croissant dough, 25-27C is safe zone as butter melts nastily at around 32C.
- Rolling it a little tight. Press down gently as you roll would be a big help in making handsome croissants. I found out stretching the the tail while rolling is not necessary. But may be you can try both ways to see the difference.
I brought these goodies home. My sister and my mom just loved them, they raved about it for days. The crust was crispy and the crumb was soft and chewy. They said these are even better than the ones bought at the Oriental Hotel (one of our favorite bakery shops) and requested me to make this at home. Hey..hey, my arms are still aching from the class. Spare me, please! :-D Actually, I'm flattered, and of course , the school and the my pastry instructor should get the full creditability for this. Salute to them all.
Here are some variation you can make with croissant dough, decorating with pastry creme and fruits (in syrup). Nice, aren't they?

Monday, August 3, 2009
Sticky bun
2 1/2 cups bread flour
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1-ounce cake yeast = 0.4 oz of active dry yeast, = 0.30 oz of instant dry yeast
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon salt (or half the portion if table salt is used)
1/2 cup ice water
5 eggs
11 ounces butter, softened
2 cups brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup pecans, toasted and chopped
Goo:
1/2 pound butter
15 ounces brown sugar
5 ounces honey
1/2 cup cream
1/2 cup water
Goo – Put butter and sugar in a non stick pan, medium heat. Reduce until very thick. Let warm. In a separate bowl, stir together honey, cream and water. Stir cream mixture into butter+sugar mixture, stir until well blended. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for next day, it will become more solid after resting in the fridge.
Baking day – Turn on the oven to 350 F. spread goo on roasting pan, at least 2.5 inch tall, set aside. I have an 8" x8"x2” pan which was not tall enough. I later found out the goo boiled and overflew, a bit messy there .
Place the pan in the oven and bake until light golden brown, about 30-40 minutes. I smelled the burnt caramel (as well as trouble) when the goo was sizzling and dripping out of my 2 inch tall pan. Oh no, I was hoping that my neighbor who are pensioners would not knock my door with walking stick and ask what was burning. If you have taller pan, do use it.
Some notes on the goo :
- It makes the bun soggy. Not sure what have gone wrong. Next time I will spread just enough to brown the bun. Think we can always put some more on top of finished product.
- It is too sweet for Asian taste, perhaps. But I think I am totally fine with it as is.
- I may experiment replacing butter with cream. But probably need to reduce further until it becomes very thick.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Sesame Walnut Bread
1 cup of ground black sesame.
1/2 cup of lightly roasted walnut (broken into piece by hand)
1/2 - 1 cup brown sugar - depend on your preference
Sprinkle ground sesame on the dough and knead by hand until well blended. The dough now turns to grayish/ spotted dough. Be careful though, the more you add dry ingredients like ground sesame, the dryer the dough becomes. So, be sure to stop if the dough is not workable with your hands or it will become a brick. My experiment, next time, I will make it a pitch dark bun, I wonder how far I can go.
I put the bowl in the middle rack. Be sure to put some cloth under the bowl as it tends to be overheated by direct contact to the hot iron grid that supports the bowl.
Before I go further, you can follow instruction from baking911 on how to let the dough rise in the warm oven. Be careful, I have made many disasters before. Okay, I see your curious eyes...what I did was turning on the oven a few minutes, splash water in. The oven was then foggy and temperature in the oven was rising...great! I put the dough inside. Then someone called, I thought it was a just 4 minutes, I came back, and dough surface was cooked. I was C-R-U-S-H-E-D. I wish I had an undo button, but too bad this was at no point of return. What did I do? First, screamed. Second, put myself together and third,.....everything went to the trash. And believe it or not, I did that twice ! Raise your hand if youhave made the same silly mistake. (dang it! no one?)
Break or chop 1/2 cup of walnuts, knead into the dough briefly. Roll out dough to a rectangle shape, 1/2 inch thick. Rotate the dough every other few strokes. This helps the dough rise evenly in the oven and also helps ensure it is not stick to table. Sprinkle some flour under the dough as you go.
Let the dough rise in warm place, cover with greased plastic wrap or damp cloth for 1 hour. The dough will double in size or maybe 2.5 times if your kitchen is hot and damp.
Put on the lower rack, 180 C for 20-25 minutes. If you have needle thermometer, you can check the doneness if the center of the bread reaches 88-99 C (or 190-210 F).
Let cool on the rack. Sesame smells so nice. It really is nice. I mean it. Ah ah! don't cut it while hot, it will ruin the textture and I call it disaster number two.
I myself like it a lot. My colleages love it....and no I didn't pay them to say so.....no no...never.!
Monday, December 15, 2008
Miniature Cream Scones (Gourmet Magazine, March 1990)
On pre-heated tray, put scones next to each other, don’t leave spaces. Putting them shoulder-to shoulder will help them rise better (crowd them so they have no choice but to sit straight!) Some website suggests to thumb-press on top of scones to prevent domed structure. I didn’t do that, I forgot.
You can brush with cream as advises in the recipe. I brushed with egg, lightly beaten with 1 tbsp of milk. Be careful not to brush on the side as it prevents the edge to rise. Bake for 15-18 minutes or until brown.
Got Tea?
Thursday, May 1, 2008
Mochi (modified)
This is a modified Japanese Mochi. The ingredients is nowhere near the original. I guess small bite-size that resembles mochi that make people call it this way.
You can consider this as a healthy snack, I do. I love to have a few bites and drain down with a cup of tea. If you want to make this, get prepare well ahead of time to soak the beans overnight though.
Here is recipe.
Mix together these dry ingredients
All purpose flour 250 g
Baking powder 3 g
Baking soda 2 g
Mix together these wet ingredients
Egg yolks 1
Melted butter 40 g
Water 100 g
Sweetened condensed milk 125 g
Mix the wets to the dries to form dough. It should be soft but not gooey. The texture should be similar to that of clay. Add little flour if needed. Rest for 15 minuntes.
Black-bean filling
Black beans 250 g (soaked over night)
Sugar 150 g
Melted butter 40 g
Baking soda ½ tsp
Vegetable oil 2 tbsp
A pinch of salt
Bring black beans and baking soda to a boil for 20 minutes. We will put these in the mixer and dry it out again in the pan. So you have to drain out excess water. I cannot tell exactly how much liquid each machine needs in order to mix it finely. Different makes handles dryness differently though. I drained out too much water and that my cheap mixer got stuck so I poured little water back in.
In the mixer/blender , add sugar, butter and oil. Mix until form fine paste. Return ingredient to the pan under low heat. Dry it out a bit. You can test it by scoop out a portion and spat down back to the pan. If it disappears of blend with the rest of the paste….dry it out a bit more. Remember don’t over dry coz when it’s completely cooled down, it forms harder, more manageable texture. Oh you know what, you can taste the paste if it’s just as sweet as you like. I stick with the recipe as I don’t like it too sweet. Once finished, let it cool down.
Now the fun part begins. Cut the dough in to a golf ball size. Use the thumbs and yr finger tips to spread it out in circular motion. Ensure the trim is thinner than center coz you will finally put the trim together to form the ball. Add fillings, ah-ah, not too much, I know you love fillings, everybody does !. But believe me you don’t want to end up in a mess where black bean paste splats around your hands. Try your best to wrap it up. You may use water to ensure the dough is firmly sealed.
Bake 170 C for 10-15 minutes until golden brown.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Soft Pretzel
Last time I made stuffed pretzel with apple and raisin. Just like what usually stuffed in apple pie. OMG, It was so good. I love this recipe so much. The bread is good even though you keep them in the fridge for 2 days. It’s best when heated in oven or in medium heat in microwave.
In the make of pretzel, I took some photos. Unbaked mini pretzels are cute. They are like babies lining up for (baking soda) bath. They look naked this way. Don’t you think? Don't worry, we'll dress them up with sugar and nuts. Yumm.
Dough
4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 tablespoon white sugar
1 1/4 cups water (110 degrees F/45 degrees C)
4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup white sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Baking soda Bath – mix these together
1/2 cup baking soda
4 cups hot water
Topping Adhesive
1 eggwhite + 1 tablespoon of water
Cinnamon Sugar topping – mix all of these together. Squeeze big chuck of butter and mix well with all other ingredients. Final product will be coarse crumb with some peanut-sized bits.
½ cup of finely chopped walnuts (or other nuts of your choice)
½ cup of all purposed flour
½ cup of sugar
4 table spoon of cold butter – cut into small cubes
1 table spoon of cinnamon
A pinch of salt
For the dough - Mix everything together. Make sure you don't put yin-and-yang next to each other, which is salt and yeast. Knead to form dough. If the mixture is dry, add one or two tablespoons of water. Knead the dough until smooth, about 15 minutes. I used electric hand mixer. Those who have a professional kneading machine like Kitchen Aid stand mixer may turn on medium speed for 10 min and check if the dough passes window pane test. That is you can stretch out the dough into paper-thin without tearing it off.
Place the dough in a grased bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Let it rise in a warm place for 1 hr.
After the dough doubles in volume, punch it down. On working space cut out a piece, a tennis ball-sized. Squeeze into stick, and then start to roll to make a rope on table. The texture of the dough should be now like clay. I was tempted to sculp it to a small buffalo...oh no, I was shaping pretzel here.
Well, you can shape it differently, big or small ones. I opt to do mini pretzels as it easy to dip-and-dress in further steps.
for mini pretzels --> 0.5 cm. diameter, 1.5 feet in length .
for normal size, sold-in-mall pretzels--> 1 cm diameter, 3 feet in length.

Twist into a pretzel shape, put ugly side down. Rest the dough for 20 minutes. If you like dense pretzel, skip resting process.
Baking soda bath
Eggwhites bath
Strusel topping
Dip each pretzel into the baking soda solution. Make sure they are well coated. Note that unbathed parts will not be browned and you don’t want that, do you?
Dip into egg white bath. This will act as adhesive and make streusel stick on pretzel skin.
Place in streusel tray; coat pretzel on both sides and press gently.
Place on a greased baking sheet. Sprinkle more with strusel or other nuts of your choice.
Bake in preheated oven for 10 minutes, until browned. You are allowed to take a bite just for tasting.
Monday, April 7, 2008
Coconut flakes buns
As far as I recall, I never ever ever liked dried coconut flakes on any of my desserts (not to be confused with coconut creme and coconut meat frequently used in Thai savory and desserts that I love so much). To me, I felt its texture is like chopped cardboard (apologies for my extreme words here).
And oh, I made red bean bun out of the same batch. So I would call the day of asian bread.
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Ham&Cheese bun
I had a big piece as breakfast + a cup of yoguht shake. The bun is fluffy and chewy. This batch is a keeper. For those who love carbs, here might as well be your favorite.
Dough resting period is not long but it calls for 3 rests. I brushed the buns with egg, ham, mushroom and cheese. Topped with mayo+sugar. Final garnish with thymes and pepper would also adds flavors.
The bun is from Chinese bread book.
White Loaf
I was in the mood of craving ..... craving for carb. Nothing is better than a slice of soft bread and marmalade (or perhaps nutella? or peanut butter?). Here we go. A big white loaf that can last for 2 weeks. I ensure I have large-enough freezer to enjoy it.
I brushed with egg. It brown faster before the crumb was done. Next time try brushing with milk.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Smoked ham pizza
Date: Saturday March 8, 2008.
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Cinnamon bun

The original recipe suggests individual buns fitted in muffin pan. That looks lovely and is a twist from what we see in stores. But this should as well be cut and served as a cake. The bread is butter-rich and soft so I can cut it with serrated knife easily. So, here comes the round shape that I fitted in a 9-inch pan.
I have plenty of nuts to choose from but I love walnuts, cashews and almonds. A handful of each....no mercy.
A scoop of vanilla icecreme would be a complement . And no, I was not counting calories while digging my fork in it.
Oh...for those who wanna make this at home, here's the link for recipe with photos. Thank you Elise for a great recipe.
http://www.elise.com/recipes/archives/001734cinnamon_sticky_buns.php
